Line lock fitting

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sat Feb 27, 16 12:04 pm

Morning all...
Just chewing through some of my winter jobs, one of which is fitting the line lock to my lovely nearly new brake pipes. Nothing like thinking ahead eh ?
So my question is whether anyone has fitted one to the rears rather than the fronts ? So under normal operation you would expect to prime the system, press the button, release the footbrake and the fronts stay locked. Is there any reason you couldnt do this the other way ? So install line lock into rear pipes, press button to isolate BEFORE priming brakes - press the footbrake and you only operate the fronts.
In theory this means you can still control the fronts during burnout - you can let car creep, bring it to a stop etc etc - gives more control than the traditional ON/OFF method.

So thats my question. Anyone used a linelock to stop the rears receiving any pressure at all rather than just to hold pressure in the front ?

Clear as mud ?

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Feb 27, 16 12:54 pm

The safest way is to set it so the fronts lock on - that's what I do for the track.

Usually people put it in the rear lines :

a) because it may be easier

or

b) so they can easily do burn outs in Tesco's car park.

If you set it up with an electronic momentary (non-locking) switch it is not such a risk, but people who use manual "taps" in the rear line could forget to turn it back on in the heat of the moment and reduce their braking capability....

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat Feb 27, 16 2:02 pm

The intended use is to lock the fronts on but you could use it to lock the rears off if you must, from an equipment point of view it makes no odds. I would also strongly advise the use of a momentary activation switch, no chance of doing something daft that way, nothing worse than finding you only have half your braking circuit operational in an emergency, or at the top end of the track, Kev could tell you a story about that....

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sat Feb 27, 16 2:44 pm

Thanks chaps, as always.

Rest assured that like most things it takes me ages but once I do it, I'll do it properly.

Ref burnouts and Tesco carpark - yeah, that's more me than 'on the strip' so I think I may well do that. There will be 2 activation switches, one circuit isolator to ensure its completely dead until I want it (with big red light

) and then an actual 'do it' button. Isolator locking button, 'do it' momentary. Safety first and all that (ironically).

Don't need to make an under bonnet bracket either, given that I am chopping the main line under car to fit the bias controller through floor anyway, I may as well put the line lock in the same run.

Brain in order. ta.

lough3969 · Post by **lough3969** » Sat Feb 27, 16 3:50 pm

Doo it...

I've been pondering similar set up so would interesting to see this, like the double saftey option.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Feb 27, 16 4:01 pm

The Police view Burnouts as a very poor show, not in control of the vehicle, dangerous driving, etc. They nearly shut down the sporting bears one year over that malarkey...

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sat Feb 27, 16 5:38 pm

Yup. My dixie horn is apparently racist now too. maybe pod only then. Come on, you'd love to see if i can actually muster enough grunt to break traction

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Feb 27, 16 5:40 pm

Give it to me, I'll spin it up for you!!

68Runner · Post by **68Runner** » Sat Feb 27, 16 6:26 pm

I put in a manual lock in my rear line.

Close the line, foot on brake and give it some welly

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat Feb 27, 16 6:53 pm

Yep great idea, big burnout, forget to turn the valve back on, no back brakes at the top of the track. That's what happened to Kev.
I just don't like manual taps from a safety standpoint though I know plenty people use them.
I don't think a second switch is really needed, press the momentary switch when driving and nothing happens unless you hold it on and press the brake pedal at the same time.

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Sat Feb 27, 16 11:27 pm

I'm doing the same, daft question though. I take it the line coming from my master cylinder that is closest to the bulkhead is the rear. and that's where I should put the line lock in if I want to lock the rears out like morgan. # tescoburnout

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Sun Feb 28, 16 1:58 am

I always thought that the brake pipe at the front of the master cylinder ( furthest away from bulkhead ) is the rear brake supply.
Might be wrong though, in the middle of making brake pipes and also adding a line loc

Stu Twin · Post by **Stu Twin** » Sun Feb 28, 16 11:38 pm

Yes Rebel, the largest reservoir (nearest the bulkhead) is for the front brakes.
Seems a bit arse about face initially but if you consider that the fronts do most of the work it makes sense.

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Mon Feb 29, 16 12:27 am

Stu Twin wrote:Yes Rebel, the largest reservoir (nearest the bulkhead) is for the front brakes.
Seems a bit arse about face initially but if you consider that the fronts do most of the work it makes sense.

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Mon Feb 29, 16 6:43 pm

cheers peeps