) not sure what sort of power they will take. Not racing the motor but dont want any breaks when nailing it
Axle half shafts
Moderator: Moderators
Axle half shafts
Any suggestions whether shafts should be uprated in an 8 3/4 in a 68 charger with a suregrip with power rating at 625 horses (hopefully )
not sure what sort of power they will take. Not racing the motor but dont want any breaks when nailing it
) not sure what sort of power they will take. Not racing the motor but dont want any breaks when nailing it
IF ITS ON WHEELS, LOWER IT!!
no experience in this area
but i'd suggest nailing it with slicks and superlative grip breaks axles
nailing it without burns rubber so you axles would be ok....
this is purely based on the fact that often the drive train parts in the firing line from the factory often has a max torque rating similar to that of the motor.
(my own box and axle 250 ftlb my motor 280- 300 ftlb
2004 5 litre mustang t5 320 ftlb rating at the gearbox end and the motor makes 302)
because the factory knew that unless you clamped the wheels in a vice there was absolutely no way any of that gear would ever see the max torque of the engine on street tyres.
I also know it takes an aussie with a 360 about 1 season to bust a 7 3/4 Borg warner axle with 25 spline shafts in a 1.4 tonne car. Its the shafts that go. the inner ends slowly twist and they are happy with that, standard shafts bend and twist rather than go bang, the shafts are 10 a penny and centres and gears are expensive.
your motor sounds like it puts out loads more torque than a factory motor but.....
so really depends what you do
I will bow out now...cos as I say I don't race and have a 1/2 or less torque and BHP than you, my view is based on A level physics and anecdotal evidence.
Dave
but i'd suggest nailing it with slicks and superlative grip breaks axles
nailing it without burns rubber so you axles would be ok....
this is purely based on the fact that often the drive train parts in the firing line from the factory often has a max torque rating similar to that of the motor.
(my own box and axle 250 ftlb my motor 280- 300 ftlb
2004 5 litre mustang t5 320 ftlb rating at the gearbox end and the motor makes 302)
because the factory knew that unless you clamped the wheels in a vice there was absolutely no way any of that gear would ever see the max torque of the engine on street tyres.
I also know it takes an aussie with a 360 about 1 season to bust a 7 3/4 Borg warner axle with 25 spline shafts in a 1.4 tonne car. Its the shafts that go. the inner ends slowly twist and they are happy with that, standard shafts bend and twist rather than go bang, the shafts are 10 a penny and centres and gears are expensive.
your motor sounds like it puts out loads more torque than a factory motor but.....
so really depends what you do
I will bow out now...cos as I say I don't race and have a 1/2 or less torque and BHP than you, my view is based on A level physics and anecdotal evidence.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Super Sloth
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Daves observations re: slicks are spot on. Although, you can mitigate that somewhat on the strip if you're on the edge of the power an axle can take by using a tighter converter and/or with a softer launch to reduce the amount of shock loading along the drive line.
Stepping up to a Dana instead of uprating the shafts in the 8 3/4 might be an option worth looking at?
Stepping up to a Dana instead of uprating the shafts in the 8 3/4 might be an option worth looking at?
-Jon.
hi dell yes now got it home & wrapped up cosy in gaarage waiting for me to finish putting back together
yes dana would have been way to go but engine upgrade wasnt planned so the 8 3/4 is all seamed weided, smoothed and shiny paintwork with nice new diff 3.23 suregrip
so gotta use it.
Engine is using the new muscle motors big block "The Block" with stroker kit 505", edlbrock heads, edlbrock performer inlet, h beam rods etc etc,
Roger Luty is putting together for me, when it arrives!
then onto the dyno and see if what they said is true
all mated to an uprated 727.
Docter Diff Discs kits all round with hydro power brake system
firmfeel steering system with 2" drop spindles and rear suspension components
Koni shocks
AND 1 DAY I WILL GET TO DRIVE IT ONLY HAD IT 10 YEARS!!!!
yes dana would have been way to go but engine upgrade wasnt planned so the 8 3/4 is all seamed weided, smoothed and shiny paintwork with nice new diff 3.23 suregrip
so gotta use it.
Engine is using the new muscle motors big block "The Block" with stroker kit 505", edlbrock heads, edlbrock performer inlet, h beam rods etc etc,
Roger Luty is putting together for me, when it arrives!
then onto the dyno and see if what they said is true
all mated to an uprated 727.
Docter Diff Discs kits all round with hydro power brake system
firmfeel steering system with 2" drop spindles and rear suspension components
Koni shocks
AND 1 DAY I WILL GET TO DRIVE IT ONLY HAD IT 10 YEARS!!!!
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IF ITS ON WHEELS, LOWER IT!!
