71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

newsatten · Post by **newsatten** » Wed May 20, 20 8:46 am

The drivers side, was considerably worse!
but fortunately pretty much confined to the front foot well below the pedals, water must have been getting in for years from the rust damage above
around the air intake aperture download/file.php?mode=view&id=128258

newsatten · Post by **newsatten** » Wed May 20, 20 5:19 pm

download/file.php?mode=view&id=128262

The floor section below the rear seat was showing some deep pitting, so decided to cut it out, very difficult to make a decent job of the repair panel as its very complex, but its in and looks ok,
Had to do the same job on the right side to, once again beefed up the seat belt anchor fixings with 2mm plate.

I went well over the corrosion line with the front foot well, but thought it would be prudent to stay below the factory join between the floor and lower bulkhead, just made it easier to fake the floor when viewed from the underside!
Had a route round inside the chassis boxes whilst i could see inside, hoovered them out and treated them with zinc primer, i'l cavity wax all the boxes underneath when the cars complete, theres tons of access holes!

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Thu May 21, 20 2:02 pm

what acid are you using?

i've tired spirit of salts (HCL) , all good until you get a hole in your glove then its like someone stabbed your finger with a needle and lent on it...
and everything flash rusts again within 15 minutes...so the removal is very quick. the danger is high. need plastic apron and goggles, as it kind makes your jeans fall to bits, the fumes are noxious and everything needs washing in lots of bicarbonate of soda afterwards
cleans out a rusted fuel tank pretty quick mind.

i'm thinking about phosphoric next time bit safer and lass flash rust i believe....

Adam · Post by **Adam** » Thu May 21, 20 6:19 pm

Awesome work Pete! Thanks for sharing

newsatten · Post by **newsatten** » Thu May 21, 20 6:59 pm

Dave its from a local body and paint supplier its called Ferro Betol, around 40 quid for 5 ltrs.
its not to scary to use, and needs patients, but it does work.

My upper bulkhead how ever was a tad beyond acid cleaning!
download/file.php?mode=view&id=128269

thttps://www.moparuk.com/forums/download/file.ph ... d=128270he thttps://www.moparuk.com/forums/download/file.ph ... d=128271er marvelous

I chopped out the upright on the right side, but kept it to the outside of the inner wing section, this allowed me follow the correct angle and by opening up the spot welds slot the repair panel in,

Both these areas were absolutely full of expanding foam!

Fortunately both the upright panel that fit to the A post were sound!

newsatten · Post by **newsatten** » Fri May 22, 20 5:38 pm

These pics are not overly good, as i had a small flood lamp behind me, it was winter at the time and dark and cold!
I really should have welded two studs for the rear fixing of the air duct, but they got missed? ces't la vie.shttps://www.mohttps://www.moparuk.com/forums/do ... &id=128281

download/file.php?mode=view&id=128286

As i is was in the corner, there was some nasty at both hinge points on the A post so they were chopped out and repair sections made and welded back in, once again it was confined just to the outer skins, so once the spot welds were removed its quite easy to then cut out a complete section that can be used as a perfect pattern for the replacement.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Fri May 22, 20 8:04 pm

Fantastic work. Brings back memories of doing my old 66 Fury on the driveway. Welding, paint, everything. Glad I did it as I picked up a few new skills. Nowhere near as good as your work. Great thread and keep it coming,

Cheers Steve

ScottyDave · Post by **ScottyDave** » Fri May 22, 20 10:30 pm

Great work

newsatten · Post by **newsatten** » Sat May 23, 20 1:36 pm

download/file.php?mode=view&id=128308

I decided not to spend hours dressing the welding in these dodgy confined spaces, as i got badly injured when dressing the welding on a passenger front footwell on a series 3 E some time ago, the dis'c broke up a cut my chin which needed 10 stitches!
few inches lower and it would have been my throat!
So im now gun shy grinding etc in tight spaces!
Beware.......................
And being
realistic all this completely disappears once the felt/carpet, heater box etc

Dom66 · Post by **Dom66** » Sat May 23, 20 4:27 pm

10 stitches

jeez, makes you think....

Nice job, thanks for posting these up

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Sat May 23, 20 11:15 pm

Great work you're doing there. I bet Barry is pleased to see it's getting done right even though he doesn't own it now.
.

newsatten · Post by **newsatten** » Sun May 24, 20 6:25 pm

Boot floor and the roof,
The roof had some ominous lumps under the vinyl, so prepared myself for some rat holes, however it was pretty much all ok!
Some pitting in patches but even joiner wells on the sail panels were scabby but not rotten,
Spent ages with the acid removing all the corrosion from the pitting...................
The boot floor was generally ok, it had been welded before above the rear spring shackles , strong but rough, so these were dressed but left alone
had to do a couple of small repairs where the inner wheel tubs meet the floor but nothing major !

download/file.php?mode=view&id=128418

Plumcrazy · Post by **Plumcrazy** » Tue May 26, 20 12:29 pm

Brilliant work!!

Matt74 · Post by **Matt74** » Tue May 26, 20 9:11 pm

newsatten wrote: Sat May 23, 20 1:36 pm download/file.php?mode=view&id=128308

I decided not to spend hours dressing the welding in these dodgy confined spaces, as i got badly injured when dressing the welding on a passenger front footwell on a series 3 E some time ago, the dis'c broke up a cut my chin which needed 10 stitches!
few inches lower and it would have been my throat!
So im now gun shy grinding etc in tight spaces!
Beware.......................
And being
realistic all this completely disappears once the felt/carpet, heater box etc

Your Challenger is looking great. re shattering grinding discs I use flap discs, power files, rotary files and roloc discs for dressing down welds. Never had a problem and in most cases you can't see it's been repaired.

Sorry if you've said already but what acid are you using?

newsatten · Post by **newsatten** » Wed May 27, 20 8:01 pm

The rust remover is Ferro Betol, as ive said before its not scary burn ya fingers off stuff but works very well!

download/file.php?mode=view&id=128497

This was a mission doing it on the floor on my back!
The shock beam had rusted at the top shock eye mounting, the n/s was really bad, the off side was worn but holding up!
no room the work on it in situ so it had to come out, took me ages to remove it, once out i blasted it, respired and seriously beefed up themounting points, checked the fit, etched it and welded back in place.
Deffo a job for a lift or download/file.php?mode=view&id=128499a rotisserie lol..........

Mopar Muscle Association UK

71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

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Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

Re: 71 340 RT Challenge Driveway resto........

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