Electrical connectors

[Stu]

I’m sure I saw someone trying to sell one to one of the American Pawn shops on reality Tv not that long ago.

I’ve I had a gigantic man cave, I’d love one just for decoration, they look amazing.

[Blue]

He's not short of space...

[Stu]

[Dave999]

most of the machine now fits in a multi meter and a timing gun
couple that with an 02/Co snifer or lambda guage and job done

a great machine i'd like to ahve is the sun or krypton tune distributor test machine that does dwell and advance curve etc

ideally you also need the manual
in fact finding a manual and then getting a bit of kit that is lacking a manual usually works to your advantage on the ££ front

got my alignment castor camber set up for $50 swivel plate wheel clamps n all
then got a copy of the manual off a kindly ebay seller who was punting out another set.

worked out nice £5 for photo copy and post

Dave

[Stu]

Ok, proper stoopid question time, realised tonight I will need to extend the wires on the tach to be able to connect once I’ve moved it….

What wire do I need to buy?

A simple search of automotive wire has led me down a rabbit hole…

[Pete]

LOADS of options on eBay - Length, Current carrying capability...

You need to understand what the current draw of any device is, coupled to the length of the run.... the longer the run then the higher the gauge of the wire due to voltage drop and losses....

[Stu]

Yep, that's exactly what I've been trying to figure out tonight.

Just a tach, to extend the wires to reach the current plumbing by about a foot.

[Pete]

That will consume 4/5ths of bugger all power.... you could use any gauge wire for that sort of device, and as Blue says, a multi-plug if you are so inclined....

[Stu]

Any old Bananarama! it is then.

[Dave999]

this would work

use the female end on the car and the male end on the tacho female is more insulated from shorts so it goes on the end that has power even when the device is disconnected

think of house hold plugs. the plug on the appliance has the sticky out bits. if the socket had them we'd all be dead.

the wires come through the plastic before you crimp on the connectors ........ !....check!


need to crimp and or crimp and solder, can be achived with pliers and a soldering iron if necessary

work out which way the connectors go in... before starting otherwise you may find you have it all the wrong way

pice of ground down hacks saw blade mounted in a dowel or a very thin crap £1 screw drive can be used to remove the connectors from the plastic if you make a mistake.

or get a bumper set of 60 connector tools off ebay or facebook advert and spend the day working out which one

see the little tab that sticks out from the body between crimp section and buisness end..... thats what holds it into the plastic
make sure they stick out before installation and bend em back to sticking out, if you have to remove and start again

Dave

[Stu]

Cheers Dave. Just trying to find a mounting cup for the tach and have the gauge plate to spray up and then I’ll be attacking the wiring later in the week or at the weekend.

I need to get the tach mounted first, I reckon, as I need the access through the dash before I put the small gauges in place.

[Dave999]

8 amp would do 17 amp would be overkill but my be similar diameter to what is there. has a bit more meat to it for a decent crimp
get insulated part into small crimp and stripped part in big crimp. double it over if its all a bit fluffy and getting into the lock section
or trim it once crimped


any colour you like

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk ... -pvc-cable

standard is easier to strip than the stuff with rock hard PVC case
its also more flexible but wrap it where it crosses hard and cut inside dash frame edges,

worth gettimg two sets of the connector the second one is always better, until you get your wiring MOJO working


Dave

[Stu]

I’ve only got 5 amp.

[Dave999]

that will be fine:) just if you had to buy some.......

[Stu]