acrylic or 2pac?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Oct 07, 04 2:41 pm

http://www.sikkenscr.co.uk/sikkens/uk/services/TIS.htm

technical stuff to confuse you even more

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Oct 07, 04 3:34 pm

ooh, theres some interesting bits & bobs in there.

We have a Sikkens dealer near me, sadly Bancrofts has gone now

so some of this stuff might be well handy to know up front.

I'm thinking of building my own IR heater array (I can't afford to buy one) so I'll have a buz through thier IR curing guidelines as it will hopefully give me some pointers and an idea whether its worth doing or not...

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Oct 07, 04 3:51 pm

Guys,
can you recommend anyone who is a whizz at body work (not that mine needs much) and an excellent sprayer who ISNT going to absolutely have my pants down when the bill is drawn up?

Bodywork wise, I need the obligatory trunk floor, rear screen removed and metal surround repaired, a patch but in at one end of the rear bumper then a small repair done on drivers side sill.

I then want the car sprayed white (smae colour as it is now) and a red bumble bee stripe stuck on.

Any ideas

Mucho Gracias

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Thu Oct 07, 04 5:52 pm

Sorry to confuse you Alistair, I ment polyester basecoat!

Just to simplify matters I use R-M Diamont Basecoat and R-M Crystaltop clear.

For Straight colours, R-M Uno. They two pack materials, tough as old boots, the colour match is spot on every time (when I've got the car in front of me, or you need a factory original colour).

How far are you prepared to go for a paint job Clivey? I'll see if I can get a name for you.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 08, 04 8:44 am

Ivor,
am about 30 miles from Brighton so anywhere on south east / south coast and then up to northamptonshire sort of way so prepapred to go quite far.

I am not looking for a cheap cheap bargain basement price, just a good good job for the money.

I love my car.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Oct 26, 04 4:14 pm

Bit of a late reply, 2 pack is the way to go, as well as what the other chaps have mentioned, theres 2'3 tricks u can do with 2 pack

If youve any GP panels on yer motor u can add a plasticer which allows the paint to flex with the panels also increase the gloss level

on the last coat if really building a hi build up on a solid colour add some clear laquer to last coat(s), once paint has cured/ dried, nib off with some fine wet n dry& soapy water, then buff up with a good polish compound , Farecla g7 is a good 1 to use Once youve flatted the paint work down allow to stand for a few hrs or over night allows the paint to re settle down after being worked if not baked dry

regards

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Nov 01, 04 7:24 pm

I thought G7 wasn't suitable for 2 pack as it contains amonia which is harmful to 2 pack.

The newish G3 Advanced Liquid is a marvel product. I'm not using paste ever again after trying that!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Nov 02, 04 8:46 pm

Never had a prob with g7 Alister,Ive always used it with a proper buffer that runs at right rpms, plenty of water on the panel as u buff, stops the swirling , keeps paint surface cooler avoids those odd horrid burn marks if not carefull, ive used g3 always seemed to have to work it more, but its every1s liking to what product.

I always finished off with a water based wax, then a good coating in MER wax, ands a capfull when washing.

Regards

Mopar Muscle Association UK

acrylic or 2pac?

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