4-speed rebuild. Tips please!

Six-pack Speedshop · Post by **Six-pack Speedshop** » Fri Nov 16, 12 1:40 pm

Yes it's me Dave... But I meant not having 4-speed problems Dave. I still have a 4-speed in mine hahaha but this time a better piece which so far stays together running high 8's

Glad we could help Paul.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Nov 16, 12 2:01 pm

Six-pack Speedshop wrote:running high 8's

Good one mate. You must post some photos and video of that blue Challenger that Dunc sold you. The re-build you did on that was amazing.

db · Post by db » Mon Nov 26, 12 7:54 am

Mick, Terry, Hans- what bits do you have please and what do you want for 'em?

I've fully stripped the trans and checked everything for wear and damage.

The brass selector forks look a bit worn but I think they'll be fine. I may upgrade to steel forks one day...

The countershaft thrust washers definitely need replacing.

The synchros all have a bit of wear but 2nd looks quite bad, the teeth are pretty rounded which may be why 2nd was hard to shift into.
At the very least the stop ring needs replacing, ideally I should renew the whole synchro assembly.

And finally- the input bearing is loose in the casing. I'm assuming the bearing should a be press-fit? Neither the bearing or the case appear worn or damaged. I dunno whether it would be worth getting it machined out and sleeved?

Pics here-
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... &start=480

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Mon Nov 26, 12 7:53 pm

Paul, just had a look what I've got in the garage.

308 bearings.
Thrust bearings.
Tail shaft seal.
Tail shaft bushing.
Set of C clips.
Input shaft seal.
Gear selector shaft seals.
All new for 18 spline box.

Also got used clustershaft rollers and used input shaft rollers that are like new in case you need them.

I don't have any stop rings or gaskets.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Mon Nov 26, 12 7:54 pm

By the way, the input bearing dropped into my case without any effort at all, I don't think they are a press fit.

db · Post by db » Mon Nov 26, 12 9:22 pm

Thats great thanks Mick

These please...

Thrust bearings.
Tail shaft seal.
Tail shaft bushing.
Input shaft seal.
Gear selector shaft seals.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Tue Nov 27, 12 8:06 pm

Let me have your address again Paul and I'll put them in the post.

db · Post by db » Tue Nov 27, 12 10:51 pm

Pm sent Mick

Six-pack Speedshop · Post by **Six-pack Speedshop** » Wed Nov 28, 12 9:57 am

Have to check at home so see what parts I have left in my rebuild kit. I'll get back to you mate.

Cheers,

Hans @ Sixpack Speedshop

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Wed Nov 28, 12 11:24 am

Hans
Do you run a jericho ?
Mick

db · Post by db » Wed Nov 28, 12 11:38 am

Thanks Hans

Six-pack Speedshop · Post by **Six-pack Speedshop** » Thu Nov 29, 12 11:07 am

No Mick, I'm running a GForce although next time I have to ever choose I'l not go GForce again. They %$#& me up using a standard input shaft while running dual discs so the splines were to short. Everything came from the same source but it was 'my' fault so they didn't even want to sent out a new correct shaft. Anyway, now we've fixed everything ourselfes with some extra modifications it shifts perfectly. Leaving at around 5800-6000rpm's

Check your mail Paul, I've sent you what I have left.

Six-pack Speedshop · Post by **Six-pack Speedshop** » Tue Dec 04, 12 11:28 am

Got all the needed parts now Paul?

db · Post by db » Tue Dec 04, 12 3:00 pm

I've not seen todays post yet mate, I'll let you know when it arrives but I should have everything sorted then

db · Post by db » Mon Jan 21, 13 8:02 pm

Just found a couple of good pages on correct shifter adjustment...

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howt ... our_mopar/

Also had this nice shot of shift plates drilled for short travel shifting

This from Hurst's site f.a.q.

What is the proper way to adjust my Hurst four speed shifter?

There is a 1/4 inch hole at the bottom of the Hurst mechanism that runs through all three levers. This is called the neutral alignment hole. To ensure proper adjustment, run the shifter from first into second and then back to neutral. Insert the neutral alignment pin (or a 1/4 inch drill bit) into the neutral alignment hole. If the 1-2 lever interferes with the smooth insertion of the alignment pin, remove the 1-2 linkage rod from the shifter and thread the adjuster button either in or out to eliminate the interference. Repeat this procedure with the 3-4 lever and reverse. To adjust the stop bolts, back the bolts out of the shifter frame until only a few threads remain. Push the stick firmly into third gear and hold. Screw in the stop bolt until contact is made. Release the stick and back the stop bolt out one turn and tighten the jamnut. Push the stick into fourth gear and repeat the procedure.